One of the best rebuildable tanks out there is the Kayfun and its spinoffs. Earlier today I was chatting with someone on Twitter earlier today and we were talking about the Kayfun. I told him I would post some info about rebuilding the Kayfun. While there are a ton of great videos out there already, I wanted to make a guide on here. Believe it or not, there are people out there that don’t like videos. If you do like videos, I decided to to this on video and capture the images for the written version from it. Scroll down for my video.
How to Rebuild the Kayfun RBA
When you receive your Kayfun, Kayfun Clone, or any other variation of the Kayfun, you will probably need to clean it well.
The way I clean them is to soak the parts, disassembled, in Vodka or PGA. I typically soak my parts overnight. Other suggest boiling the metal parts, I am not a fan of this. After your Kayfun is clean, run them under hot water and maybe even scrub them with an old toothbrush.
Now that the parts are all clean and hopefully free of the dreaded metal taste, it’s time to get building.
What you’ll need for my build of a 1 ohm single coil:
- The tank, cleaned and disassembled
- 28 Gauge Kanthal
- 3/32nd Drill Bit
- Organic Cotton or whatever you choose to use for wicking
- Butane Torch (optional)
- Small Phillips Screwdriver
- The E-Liquid you will be filling it with
- Cutter for the Kanthal
- Scissors for cutting the cotton
- Ohm Meter
I put the Kayfun deck on my ohm meter to build it so I can get a stable place to build on.
Build the Coil
- For the 1 ohm coil, I use 28 gauge Kanthal on a 3/32nd drill bit. Before I start wrapping, I use a torch to take the spring out of the wire. I cut off a piece of Kanthal and hold it with my pliers and just run down the wire 1 time.
- Start wrapping the wire around the drill bit, making sure to get the wraps as close to each other (without overlapping) as possible.
- Once you’ve got the wraps on the bit, try to mash them together as much as possible and then cut off the excess wire (or you can cut off excess once the coil is attached).
- Keep the coil on the drill bit, it will make it easier to keep in place
Attach the Coil
The way I like to attach the coil to the Kayfun deck is to start off away from the air hole in the center and line it up in a straight line between the positive and negative screw posts. Once the coil is screwed down, I adjust it to where I want it to be. I raise it directly over the air hole, then I offset it by 45 degrees. I like this positioning because I can get more wicking material with a twist and downward push to the deck above the juice channels.
Now that I have it attached and it’s close to the resistance I was after, it’s time to adjust the coil to where I want it with the 45 degree turn.
In this step, I am heating up the coil by firing it on a mod, then I let off and squeeze the coils together to try to remove all the gaps. If I would have made the coil tighter before I attached it, it would be much easier.
Wicking the Kayfun
Now that I have the coil where I want it, it’s time to wick it.
Grab a cotton ball and unroll it. If it doesn’t unroll, you’ve got the wrong kind of cotton balls.
Feed the cotton while twisting it a little through the coil. You want the cotton wicking to be as tight in the coil as you can without making it too tight to slide in. Cut off the excess. All you need is just enough to loop down towards the top of the juice wells.
Now I pre wet the wicks to make it easier to work with when I am positioning the wicks.
I push the wicks down up against the wall just above the juice wells.
Once the wicks are in place against that wall, we’re pretty much done. Screw the chimney down and finish putting it together.
Everything else goes into place.
That’s about it. I hope that, even though I am new too, that this helps someone.
There are some great Kayfun build videos on YouTube if you want to search around. Mine is not all that. 🙂